摘  要

旗袍,在现今日常生活,已鲜有人穿。然而那些电影节、那些国际会议上,总活跃着旗袍的身影,可以说是一种流行现象,但一身旗袍背后暗含的不仅是对流行的趋同,还有对中国文化的认同。

本文的前半部分主要是透过2000年的电影《花样年华》引起的旗袍轰动效应,简要分析了片中旗袍的式样,以及与电影语言的特殊关系。后半部分则详细地阐述了旗袍的历史与发展。旗袍最初是宽腰直通的满族服饰;到20世纪20年代旗袍受欧美服饰的影响逐渐称身合体;三十年代是旗袍的鼎盛时期,造型开始有了立体结构,更加收腰而彰显出女性的体形曲线,此时旗袍的样式与面料的运用也有了飞跃的发展;四十年代是海派旗袍时期,样式变化趋于简单、轻便;五十年代旗袍被特殊的时代封锁与否定;八九十年代千篇一律的具有职业象征意义的“制服旗袍”;今天,国际时装设计大师们都不同程度地利用了中国传统旗袍作为创作素材。

旗袍,作为我们最熟悉的中国经典传统服饰,曾经辉煌一时。而当今的旗袍,无论从社会地位、审美角度、人文情感上都发生了巨大的变化。

 

 

 

 

 

关键词:流行现象;历史与发展;变化

 

Abstract

Chi-pao, or mandarin gown seems rare in present-day life. But its active image can still be seen in many of the important movie festival or international conference, this phenomena can not only be regarded as a pursuit of fashion, but also a recognition of Chinese culture.

In the first part of this article, the movie “in the mood for love” which cause a great sensation of chi-pao was introduced to analyze the costume style and to further depict its relationship with movie language. Its history and development can be seen in the second part. First designed fit loosely and hung straight down the body, then influenced by western style in the 1920s, it was changed to Slender and form fitting with a high cut. In 1930s, which was chi-pao’s summit, the thoughts of three-dimensional design and waist tighten which project the body shape of women were accepted, style and material were also developed rapidly.1940s was dominated by shanghai style, which exhibited a trend of simple and light. Through the blockage and denial from 1950s caused by special circumstances at that ages, chi-pao became professional symbolic or “uniform chi-pao” in 1980s. But today, as a source of inspiration, it can be seen more or less in some of the fashion design’s masterpieces.

Cheong-sam(Qipao),as a famous traditional Chinese costume,it had been refulgenced in the past time.Nowadays the Cheong-sam,in social position,aesthetic and humanity sensibility,all made a enormous movement.

 

 

 

 

 

Key words: Phenomenon to prevail;History and develop;Change

 

 

 

目录

引言

一、旗袍包裹下的凄美爱情与孤独人生

(一)《花样年华》中的旗袍文化……………………1

1.苏丽珍和二十三件旗袍………………………………1

2.旗袍下的凄惨人生……………………………………2

(二)旗袍与人物塑造和主旨揭示………………….4

1.旗袍对塑造苏丽珍人物形象的作用………………..4

2.旗袍和影片的主旨揭示………………………………5

二、旗袍的昨天、今天与明天

(一)旗袍的由来………………………………………6

1.旗袍和满族…………………………………………….6

2.旗袍的传统文化……………………………………….6

(二)旗袍的最初造型…………………………………7

(三)旗袍的鼎盛期和历史沿革……………………..7

1.旗袍的款式革新……………………………………….7

2.西方文化影响下的旗袍发展…………………………8

3.五六十年代旗袍的衰落………………………………10

4.八十年代职业化的“制服旗袍”……………………11

(四)旗袍的光辉发展…………………………………11

三、结语

参考文献

致谢

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